so re-reading this....

For some reason the shaft is stuck on the inner face of the wheel bearing. I am guessing by the time you have it out the bearing is going to be shot anyway. So you may as well just drill the bearing race and then sort out removing the rest of the bearing.

TT

 

Finallyyy!!

Had the mechanic around on Saturday morning. Car ready, jacked up and tie rod, knuckle bolt removed etc.

He tried his 10 ton puller and copper hammer. Scratching his head wondering why it wasn't moving.

So we had no choice but to bring out the large copper hammer!! 5 kilograms and a handle about a 6 feet long. A few whacks with this it started to move!! Did a good job of dislodging alll the mud from behind the bumper also!!

Bit of pulling and hammering it finally came loose. He pulled it in and out a few times to loosen it.
Job done for him! Expected my bearing to be shot but all seemed ok. Fingers crossed.

Spent the remainder of the day cleaning up the CV joint surface for the new ring. Was pretty bad. used a flapsander on a drill end.
Got it down enough so the ring was just too tight to push on.

Oven on max. Expanded just enough to tap on gently.

Then all back together after spending some time cleaning the shaft and hub splines.

Sensor on with no shim!! yeahh. span the hub and the ring was 100% true, no peaks or troughs!

Topped up the battery as they usually drain quite a bit when working on them.

Popped out to test and the gearbox rewarded me. Felt like it had just had another oil change.
What a relief!! (and the garage said the ring was fine and shouldn't touch it!!)

I'll put the new hub nut on once I know all is perfect after a week or so of local driving.

Now just got to do the other side as it's not perfect!

I'll try to load some pics tomorrow.

oh yes the size was 90.9mm inner diameter not the smaller on of 88.9mm I had.

 

Well done Piria.

 

not good this morning. Scraping noise coming from wheel!!
increasing with speed. Something catching on one side as it scrapes on and off as wheel rotates.

If I turn left it disappears. Wheel bearing?? But wouldn't that be a constant grinding?

 

Oh dear!

Bearings rumble or throb or howl.

Your sound is more likely the splash guard touching somewhere. Have a look, spin the hub/wheel and pull it away from anything it's close to which turns.

 

Yes I'll jack it up (again!) put it in neutral and spin to see if I can diagnose. Hope its just a pad catching or spash guard (had that before)

Bearing felt silky smooth with the hub off when I turned it by hand. Maybe after pulling the shaft back in when tightening the hub nut something happened.

 

More like a metal scraping. Not a rumble, throb or howl.
Funny it didn't do it after the quick test drive yesterday. I've checked the hub nut again at work and tweaked it a little more. Had a look around and pushed back the splash guard a little as it was very close to the bottom of the disc.

In an hour I'll be driving home. Just a few miles luckily.

 

Splash guard!! after bending it back a little at lunch time trip home was quiet.
Well back to original issues of a spongy brake again!!

I did my best to line up the piston slot with the lug on the pad this weekend. Guess it wasn't lined up just right. Think I'll try placing the pad on the piston and then sliding it into place rather than pad in and then slide piston over because you can't see if its lined up once caliper is in place

wheel off yet again today to inspect, line up and bleed again. driving me nuts and wrecking my knees.

 

Yes knees are my weakest link too, followed by hips. They both ache for a week or more in return for an hour usage! Hardly a fair trade, is it.

Just a thought, if you haven't flushed out all your old brake fluid in the past 5 years or so it's worth doing. I use a Gunsons Eezeebleed one-man pressure kit, it's dead easy, no need for a helper, just hook it up to your reservoir, connect it to your spare tyre, open each nipple in turn until new fluid comes through, and re-inflate your tyre after.

I'm surprised you're having so much difficulty with your pads, I used EICHER Premiums without any difficulty.

.

 

I was advised that if there is too much slack when you re-attach the caliper then the micro adjuster sometimes will not compensate.
I'll wind it in another 180 degrees and squeeze it on so its tight but not binding. Could be a slightly faulty adjuster too.

I've used over 2 litres of fluid now bleeding the brakes. I even flushed out the reservoir before bleeding. All clean I believe.

But on the plus side the gearbox is rewarding me for the new reluctor ring. It was a joy to drive this morning as it should be.

I'll have to get the other side done. (once I send my wife and son away for a day or 2!!)