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Hi , has anyone had the rear licence plate led's fault ? power to them has now failed. MOT failure
Welcome to the forum.

Check the boot loom wiring for breaks.
 
My experience, well worth a read.
A common overlooked fault that throws all sorts of problems from blowing bulbs to flat battery, and recording loads of DTCs and ultimately cooking the alternator is water and dirt ingress into the watertight box type assembly located behind the off side wheel arch liner next to the screen wash bottle. This is where the power cable comes through the floor from the battery and connects to the alternator and starter motor via a 10mm stood and eye terminals. Its a bad design because all the water, dirt and salt runs down from the front screen and scuttle behind the wheel arch liner and over the box. The box fills with salty conductive mud and starts to track to body earth and that burns away the nuts on the stood. This is a massive problem because the alternator is unique. It does NOT have a built in regulator as is the norm. It is controlled by the engine ECU in conjunction with the BCM. Because the tracking to earth is inconsistent due to changing moisture content in the box, The amount of charge in the battery is not what the ECU and BCM expect. This is because power is been consumed by a means not monitored by the BCM. As a result the alternator will under and overcharge the battery at random, often to destruction. This will be a problem on most if not all older cars. My car is a 208 xf. Ive owned it for two years and had loads of intermittent electrical problems. I found this problem by chance after about a year when the windscreen washers were not putting out enough water. Most was appearing behind the front wheel on the road. By chance, the hose from the water bottle was routed by the terminal box behind the liner, and the burning and tracking had part burnt through the hose. But for that I would probably never have found the fault in the box. I wish I had found it sooner because the alternator shorted out and killed the battery not long after. Probably due to it working overtime cooking and shorting through the mud around the box. My odometer was reading 80,000 miles at that time. I mentioned this to a Jag indy dealer that i know and showed him pics of the burnt box. He was elated! He stated it was common for alternators to fail around that milage, (this may be a coincidence). shortly after this he told me he had solved several problems on cars that had problems from blowing bulbs, cooking or random flat batteries, and random DTCs. All the cars he checked had failed gaskets and evidence of burning/tracking to earth.
The Jaguar main dealers I spoke to had no knowledge of this problem. Probably because they don't get to work on older cars.
Removing the wheel arch liner is a ten minute job once the wheel is off and I strongly recommend checking this out if you have strange or random faults, if nothing else you may save the alternator from self destructing.
Jim
PS I will post about other problems and fixes that i have found and most are a simple DIY fix when I get time, and believe me there are Many!
Wow man this post is my car to the letter. I'm maybe a couple hundred clicks away from 80,000kms on my 2013 xfr and have been getting some really strange codes, I have a 1yr old battery from jaguar that is now toast and keep getting battery not charging warning
It can't be the alternator because when running the volts jump from 11.92 up to 14.5-14.7 and I've stuck a coat hanger around the pulley and the magnetic draw was strong enough I had to shut the car off to get the hanger off lol
So I will definitely be taking that wheel arch off and having a look for what ur posting about
 
Jimathan, you were robbed. New alternator and battery including labour was £600 for me.
He got robbed?? I'm not sure what the conversion rate is from £ to CAD but in Alberta Canada, the jag dealership charges me $600 and that was just for the battery I installed it myself as it would have cost me another almost $400 for them to fit it
 
My experience, well worth a read.
A common overlooked fault that throws all sorts of problems from blowing bulbs to flat battery, and recording loads of DTCs and ultimately cooking the alternator is water and dirt ingress into the watertight box type assembly located behind the off side wheel arch liner next to the screen wash bottle. This is where the power cable comes through the floor from the battery and connects to the alternator and starter motor via a 10mm stood and eye terminals. Its a bad design because all the water, dirt and salt runs down from the front screen and scuttle behind the wheel arch liner and over the box. The box fills with salty conductive mud and starts to track to body earth and that burns away the nuts on the stood. This is a massive problem because the alternator is unique. It does NOT have a built in regulator as is the norm. It is controlled by the engine ECU in conjunction with the BCM. Because the tracking to earth is inconsistent due to changing moisture content in the box, The amount of charge in the battery is not what the ECU and BCM expect. This is because power is been consumed by a means not monitored by the BCM. As a result the alternator will under and overcharge the battery at random, often to destruction. This will be a problem on most if not all older cars. My car is a 208 xf. Ive owned it for two years and had loads of intermittent electrical problems. I found this problem by chance after about a year when the windscreen washers were not putting out enough water. Most was appearing behind the front wheel on the road. By chance, the hose from the water bottle was routed by the terminal box behind the liner, and the burning and tracking had part burnt through the hose. But for that I would probably never have found the fault in the box. I wish I had found it sooner because the alternator shorted out and killed the battery not long after. Probably due to it working overtime cooking and shorting through the mud around the box. My odometer was reading 80,000 miles at that time. I mentioned this to a Jag indy dealer that i know and showed him pics of the burnt box. He was elated! He stated it was common for alternators to fail around that milage, (this may be a coincidence). shortly after this he told me he had solved several problems on cars that had problems from blowing bulbs, cooking or random flat batteries, and random DTCs. All the cars he checked had failed gaskets and evidence of burning/tracking to earth.
The Jaguar main dealers I spoke to had no knowledge of this problem. Probably because they don't get to work on older cars.
Removing the wheel arch liner is a ten minute job once the wheel is off and I strongly recommend checking this out if you have strange or random faults, if nothing else you may save the alternator from self destructing.
Jim
PS I will post about other problems and fixes that i have found and most are a simple DIY fix when I get time, and believe me there are Many!
Jim, many thanks for your time and sharing your in-depth knowledge - and a photo as well! I very much appreciate your generosity I'm going to follow your advice and take the car from the main dealer to an independent Jaguar garage - when they can take the car - early September! best wishes, Michael Stuart
 
My experience, well worth a read. A common overlooked fault that throws all sorts of problems from blowing bulbs to flat battery, and recording loads of DTCs and ultimately cooking the alternator is water and dirt ingress into the watertight box type assembly located behind the off side wheel arch liner next to the screen wash bottle. This is where the power cable comes through the floor from the battery and connects to the alternator and starter motor via a 10mm stood and eye terminals. Its a bad design because all the water, dirt and salt runs down from the front screen and scuttle behind the wheel arch liner and over the box. The box fills with salty conductive mud and starts to track to body earth and that burns away the nuts on the stood. This is a massive problem because the alternator is unique. It does NOT have a built in regulator as is the norm. It is controlled by the engine ECU in conjunction with the BCM. Because the tracking to earth is inconsistent due to changing moisture content in the box, The amount of charge in the battery is not what the ECU and BCM expect. This is because power is been consumed by a means not monitored by the BCM. As a result the alternator will under and overcharge the battery at random, often to destruction. This will be a problem on most if not all older cars. My car is a 208 xf. Ive owned it for two years and had loads of intermittent electrical problems. I found this problem by chance after about a year when the windscreen washers were not putting out enough water. Most was appearing behind the front wheel on the road. By chance, the hose from the water bottle was routed by the terminal box behind the liner, and the burning and tracking had part burnt through the hose. But for that I would probably never have found the fault in the box. I wish I had found it sooner because the alternator shorted out and killed the battery not long after. Probably due to it working overtime cooking and shorting through the mud around the box. My odometer was reading 80,000 miles at that time. I mentioned this to a Jag indy dealer that i know and showed him pics of the burnt box. He was elated! He stated it was common for alternators to fail around that milage, (this may be a coincidence). shortly after this he told me he had solved several problems on cars that had problems from blowing bulbs, cooking or random flat batteries, and random DTCs. All the cars he checked had failed gaskets and evidence of burning/tracking to earth. The Jaguar main dealers I spoke to had no knowledge of this problem. Probably because they don't get to work on older cars. Removing the wheel arch liner is a ten minute job once the wheel is off and I strongly recommend checking this out if you have strange or random faults, if nothing else you may save the alternator from self destructing. Jim PS I will post about other problems and fixes that i have found and most are a simple DIY fix when I get time, and believe me there are Many!
is there a part number for this module or box i am having the same problem not enough power going to washer pump.. garage says they can bypass it and fit a switch for washer fluid,,, new pump fitted same problem as before, only one volt getting to pump,should be 12 ... what do people think
 
Did your washer pump leak out of it's connector? If so it's quite common for the water to creep through the wire all the way to the BCM, and corrode the terminals there, if it's just a little bit, you might get away with cleaning the terminals on the BCM connector, otherwise the BCM may be too water damaged ( though I have heard of folk soldering wires to the pins at the back of the board to restore the connection, as the BCM is very expensive )
 
I was excited to find this post, since the symptoms matched those in my ‘09 XF Super, and it was an area that hadn’t been checked. However, no corrosion nor dirt was found in that area upon inspection. Subsequent efforts led toward the Body Control Module (BCM) located in the right front footwell. Turns out new OEM BCMs aren’t available but specialists can debug and reprogram existing ones. Here in the Northeast US, I used G7 Computers of Canandaigua NY who found and fixed a hardware error. Following that, the car has run perfectly making the slow degradation of electrical function of the past 2 years a thing of the past. Thanks G7 and good luck to everyone out there.
 
My experience, well worth a read.
A common overlooked fault that throws all sorts of problems from blowing bulbs to flat battery, and recording loads of DTCs and ultimately cooking the alternator is water and dirt ingress into the watertight box type assembly located behind the off side wheel arch liner next to the screen wash bottle. This is where the power cable comes through the floor from the battery and connects to the alternator and starter motor via a 10mm stood and eye terminals. Its a bad design because all the water, dirt and salt runs down from the front screen and scuttle behind the wheel arch liner and over the box. The box fills with salty conductive mud and starts to track to body earth and that burns away the nuts on the stood. This is a massive problem because the alternator is unique. It does NOT have a built in regulator as is the norm. It is controlled by the engine ECU in conjunction with the BCM. Because the tracking to earth is inconsistent due to changing moisture content in the box, The amount of charge in the battery is not what the ECU and BCM expect. This is because power is been consumed by a means not monitored by the BCM. As a result the alternator will under and overcharge the battery at random, often to destruction. This will be a problem on most if not all older cars. My car is a 208 xf. Ive owned it for two years and had loads of intermittent electrical problems. I found this problem by chance after about a year when the windscreen washers were not putting out enough water. Most was appearing behind the front wheel on the road. By chance, the hose from the water bottle was routed by the terminal box behind the liner, and the burning and tracking had part burnt through the hose. But for that I would probably never have found the fault in the box. I wish I had found it sooner because the alternator shorted out and killed the battery not long after. Probably due to it working overtime cooking and shorting through the mud around the box. My odometer was reading 80,000 miles at that time. I mentioned this to a Jag indy dealer that i know and showed him pics of the burnt box. He was elated! He stated it was common for alternators to fail around that milage, (this may be a coincidence). shortly after this he told me he had solved several problems on cars that had problems from blowing bulbs, cooking or random flat batteries, and random DTCs. All the cars he checked had failed gaskets and evidence of burning/tracking to earth.

The Jaguar main dealers I spoke to had no knowledge of this problem. Probably because they don't get to work on older cars.
Removing the wheel arch liner is a ten minute job once the wheel is off and I strongly recommend checking this out if you have strange or random faults, if nothing else you may save the alternator from self destructing.
Jim
PS I will post about other problems and fixes that i have found and most are a simple DIY fix when I get time, and believe me there are Many!

Thank you for this. I don’t know if it will be the root cause, but it has given me hope. In any event, I am sure it has solved many problems since you posted it.
 
I have a 2015 XF. Recently the battery went flat, so took it out and charged it. Put it back in and worked fine for a few weeks. Then all of a sudden 'steering column locked' error, and engine wouldn't start. Hooked up to diagnostics and after a few minutes. Battery low error popped up. So took out the battery again and gave it another full charge. Put it back in again. Car will not start. Will not even go into ignition stage. No lights on the dash or anything. Would you say the issue you have mentioned could be causing such behaviour?
 
I have a 2015 XF. Recently the battery went flat, so took it out and charged it. Put it back in and worked fine for a few weeks. Then all of a sudden 'steering column locked' error, and engine wouldn't start. Hooked up to diagnostics and after a few minutes. Battery low error popped up. So took out the battery again and gave it another full charge. Put it back in again. Car will not start. Will not even go into ignition stage. No lights on the dash or anything. Would you say the issue you have mentioned could be causing such behaviour?
I presume it’s an X250 and not X260.
I would start a new thread and say what you have tried based on the posts above in this one.
investigate the junction boxes for corrosion.
Facelift X250 cars need a shutdown procedure followed to avoid corruption of the memory. Like many different cars.
 
Hi, i am new to the forum and i have a very annoying 2009 XF 3.0

There are several issues and i cant find any problem when i am at a repair shop.

1. die passenger window going up/down only 5cm and stops. so i need to push it 8 times untill its full open or closed.

2. some leds on the rear left taillight were off (bought a new rear light)

3. dashboard and passive lightning goes off and back on once in a while on long rides.

4. on first drive of the day it shifts hard into third gear on wrong rpm. after that it shifts normaly in all gears for the rest of the day.

5. rpm goes up/down around 300rpm when i hold the same speed for a while.

6. when it shifts up, the rpm goes lower than expected for a second and a roaring noise appears for that second. (differential?)

7. sometime the alert "low oil pressure" is on. but oil is fine and after a restart its all fine again for a few weeks.

8. it takes a lot of coolant. every 2 or 3 months i need to replace at least 1 litre coolant.

i think thats it. i love the car, but i cant find the solution. I ordered a new battery (Bosch Silver Hightec 100l) and hope for the best. i suspect electrical problems for all of the issues. it would ne bad to have a faulty engine, gearbox, differential and electric at the same time. o_O

mileage: 90k
age: 2009
location: thailand

thank you
 
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