Im not familiar with the engine layout but it sounds like a tensioner or alternator bearing on its way out or poss water pump? Not sure how that would make it shake though, whats the cambelt history?

 

Well I guess this is good news! I bought the car with no service history (risky thing, I know), It has almost 170k kms (~105k miles), and I think that the cambelt was never changed...

 

It's always difficult to diagnose from recordings but here goes...

Your auxiliary belt sounds loud, if it is I would replace it just for being noisy, and check the tensioner by spinning it, if it is noisy then it's time to change it too.

The deeper popping... I've not thought too deeply about this but I've had it on diesels before in hot weather when the engine is hot, and I think it's just the oil being thinner in hot weather.

All of the other diesels I've owned including my E320 CDi Merc use 10W40 but the Jag uses 5W30. I would be tempted to replace it with 10W40 especially if it had a DPF.

Here in Cyprus most mechies use 15W40 for diesels in summer and 10W40 or 5W40 in winter. Never xW30.

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Jim on modern cars with their closer tolerance it is not a good idea to use different grades of oil than is recommended by the manufacturer. It can cause all sorts of problems especially with variable timing valves as it can cause them not to open and close at the correct time.

 

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We're talking about 40°C+ temperatures ducmon.

The Mercedes E320 CDi engine is not exactly archaic. You will find this is normal practice with hot climates and many manufacturers recommend different oils for hotter and colder regions than Europe.

Thin oil kills engines.

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These engines don't have vvt

When this engine is fitted in the Citroen I think 10w40 is permitted.

 

What these engines do have on the 2007 model is DPF that goes leaky leaky into your oil....
Not saying thats the case here, but it is nr1 cause of death for these engines. It'll start knocking as well.

a good start to check is giving your engine oil a good sniff. Does it smell like diesel? Then lets hope you're still in time and get your oil changed again.
And preferably get some indie to turn your DPF off....

 

I seem to have that as well... when car warms up a gentle knock knock knock... More noticeable when the car is stationary... Also if you remove the air filter cover just the clips and lift it one side, it will be louder and more noticeable... Don't know what it is.... As I have the air filter cover slightly lifted and out of place to let more air in... I notice it... But when i close the filter cover completely its not noticeable.

 

I just tried lifting the air box cover up, and yes, it's way more noticeable that way!

 

Oil level and condition?

DPF and non DPF s types are easy to differentiate.

The tailpipes point to the ground on the non DPF cars

I would be concerned about oil dilution, if you have a dpf fitted car

Many people on this forum have lost their 2.7 thanks to the ****** DPF filters diluting the oil with diesel....

 

I did say what is RECOMMENDED by manufacturer so this does include using different grades for various ambient temperatures but to just to say use a different grades oil because that is what other people are doing with their cars can and has caused engine failure.

The firm that manufactured the engine usually supplies the required information and it is easily found. It may be 40 degrees where you live but here it is only in the low 30's so I need a different grades of oil than you do going by the manufacturers information. :-D

 

Oil level is at MAX, just as it was when I change it. Condition is ok I guess... doesn't smell of diesel.

It has DPF for sure, occasionally I had "DPF Full" yellow warning messages, they always clean up after a good blast for 15-20 mins on motorway (3000+ RPM).

I just bought 8 liters of 5W30 Castrol C1 (Jaguar/LandRover approved motor oil), I'm gonna change it this week, hope it will smooth it up a little bit

 

@blitzerian

Dont let them panic you about the DPF.

If you read various articles you would think that on every model with a DPF the engine has blown - this is simply not the case.

Of course you need to be aware of it but usually it performs as intended.

 

@barryhi I was aware of this thing before buying the car, I just check the oil periodically (usually once per two days) and make sure the level doesn't rise, which it didn't at this point.

 

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Exactly.

My suggestion was that the slight knock is possibly because of the recent hot weather and the oil temperature is higher causing it to be a little thinner.

So to be at peace you could replace your oil with 10W40 and go back to 5W30 when the heatwave is over if you decide to not stay with the 10W40.

There are always going to be inexperienced people who are going to advise against anything and everything.

The other cause of "knocking" is leaky injector seals, and that sounds like tappets at first, then becomes a "chuff" and thickened, burned, black, sticky, tarry diesel fuel is sprayed up out of the injector well, and sticks on everything.

My mechie called it "The Black Death"!

If it's just beginning, you can see if one or more seals are leaking by pouring a little water into the injector well with the engine running and it will.be thown out.

I used a mobile mechie to replace mine, any mechie with a slide hammer can pull the injectors and replace the seals if they work on diesels. People are too touchy about what jobs can "only be done by a Jaguar mechie". It's only the ZF box I worry about, and any BMW mechie knows enough about them.

It's just a case of having the right tools.

Any good mobile mechie can also do a "leak-back" test of the injectors too in case one or more of those are leaking. (I mean the injectors themselves not the seals).

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you can get leak test kits off ebay.

It's just basically 6 plastic bottles to measure the quantity of fuel out of the leak off port of each injector.

or make your own kit

 

It could also be caused by the type of diesel that is being used. There is a summer diesel that is manufactured to one standard for Europe and it has a specific cetane number which is similar to the octane number. The temperatures that occurring in the moment can mean that the fuel is igniting easier as it is dependent on pressure and temperature. The lower the cetane number the longer it takes to burn in the engine. premium diesel has a higher cetane number which is why it is more expensive

The manufacturers can not change the specifications on such a short notice. it is the same sort of problem as when there is a very cold snap in the winter and the diesel in the forecourt is the wrong type for that temp.

 

Uuuurrrmmm....

I would avoid any additive for now in any case.

I've used an oil additive about 3 years ago to stop an oil leak, and it worked. That one expands the seals, I got it from Euro car parts.

I can't remember how long it took but it wasn't long, maybe a few days or a week at most before there were no more new drips on the driveway.

If you're going to use a thicker oil now, you don't need any additive, do one step at a time.

How's your coolant level etcetera?

Winter is a testing time for batteries and heating systems, summer is a testing time for ACs and coolant and radiators and expansion tanks.

And brakes!

Good time to replace your brake fluid if you have some time, use a Gunson's pressure bleed kit, very easy and quick.

It's also a good time to flush out and replace your coolant with fresh mix. You might be surprised at the improvement. Don't use any cheapo, get one that complies with Jaguar's recommended one.

Tune in later for another episode of Jim's advice for the Unsuspecting Motorist..

 

Then I guess I'll just go with the thicker oil, and maybe add the additive later, I'm just curious if it does something at all, or it's just placebo...

Coolant level is fine, but I have a minor leak (I just top it up once or twice per month with premixed coolant) that should be addressed any soon... also the heater valve is not working properly... so I was planning to fix the leak, flush the coolant with some quality stuff (yellow, now it's redish), and replace the heater valve at the same time, this I can do it by myself, seems an easy job.

Battery is fine now (after it died a couple of months ago, I was playing some music while replacing one of the CV axles and filling the diff with oil... not a very smart idea, since it took me a couple of hours...), but I'm planning in changing it soon.

Thanks for all the good info,I really appreciate it

 

If it the same antifreeze as my car uses it should be red. Check before you buy it, don't mix them or you will get a a clumpy too that can block the water ways.

 

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Yes, I agree.

Drain the old coolant out by opening the drain plug under the radiator.

Check the radiator very well, especially the bottom to see if it is bulging, this is where they corrode and burst.

Then use the garden hose and flush out all the old coolant. You can fill the system completely and run the engine for a minute to wash out the "corners" . Then stop the engine and empty the system and wash out again.

Then refill with fresh RED mix of the type recommended.

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Update: So I replaced the engine oil (Castrol C1 - recommended by Jaguar) and filter yesterday. The difference is very noticeable, much smooth, the deep "knock knock knock" almost completely disappeared!

It's still noisy, but the noise is coming from the accessories (drive belt, tensioner, etc) and not the engine... I should probably start by replacing the drive belt and its tensioner (two tensioners from what I can see: JDE11364, and C2C22802).

Thanks everybody!

 

When you changed the previous oil what did you use?

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About 6k miles ago using Motul EcoTec 5w30, it's more expensive than Castrol, and I thought it would be better.

 

Thanks for the update. Interesting result showing that the recommendations of the manufacturer do sometimes have positive results and cost less.

We will have to wait and see how long this functions.

 

I seem to have that as well... when car warms up a gentle knock knock knock... More noticeable when the car is stationary... Also if you remove the air filter cover just the clips and lift it one side, it will be louder and more noticeable... Don't know what it is.... As I have the air filter cover slightly lifted and out of place to let more air in... I notice it... But when i close the filter cover completely its not noticeable.

Not an expert on this, but doesn't having the air filter cover afar muck up the MAP Sensor?

 

Not sure but it seems to help low end torque and car seems to have more power and pick... Maybe because it's able to suck in more air? Not sure but works better for some reason. Time will tell when the next f up happens I guess 😂😂😂

 

About 6k miles ago using Motul EcoTec 5w30, it's more expensive than Castrol, and I thought it would be better.

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The hot spell would have thinned the oil.

Now the cool spell will return things to normality.

And there's another hot spell coming.

All change!!

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Sorry, I know this is an old thread, but did the problems completely go away just by changing the oil? I may have somewhat similar symptoms, with a lumpy cold idle and noisy/knock-y on warm. Does not seem to smoke at all and pulls away fine - at least it seems so, I don't really know these cars well and what to expect from them - cruises on highway with low fuel consumption (trip computer). I just bought new oil and filters but I only had the choice of Shell, Elf and Ford motorcraft. Went with the Elf since it was something-something-D compliant. Let's see. I'll inspect injectors next. Must get acquainted with the car (have it only for 4 days now, been garaged all the time) and what better way than to start taking it apart?

 

Just give the car a service. Change oil, filter and do not forget the diesel filter.

You will amazed how often the fuel filter is forgotten.

If it is possible get the DPF cleaned (if you have one that is).

When they get blocked with old ash it can cause a lack of performance.

So off you go to the local DIY workshop and get checking.

Your imagination is saying it is worse than it is most probably is.