Good one mate...as I am PETRIFIED of mine not starting after interrupting the diesel supply, I got mine out last week from below, just popped off the track-rod end...you will find the two long bottom studs in the way as you say, and if you don't have the special e-star socket to unscrew them, just get the two 15mm nuts you have just removed, lock them against each other on the stud nearest you and twist out ONLY that stud by using two spanners, one to hold the nut on the end tight, the other to twist the nut on the inside against it....out it comes easy !!

 

Good idea that! Since it's only the IN pipe I remove from the filter and the diesel is still in it you won't have a problem starting. When you do replace the filter though you definitely should have a bit of diesel to fill the new filter.

 

I was also a bit wary of changing the fuel filter myself because of this interuption/air in system potential issue; changed the filter, obviously undoing all the pipes, filling the new filter up with diesel myself before reconnecting with absolutely no issues at all, started first time.

 

And while you are at it, change the alternator pulley for a freewheel one....the noise reduction is fantastic....the rattle at idle is GONE....

 

The more I read about the alternator being a pig to get to, the more I'm willing to give the job to a garage to do. I know I'll regret it when I get the bill though.

 

Honestly, the alternator out through the wheel arch is relatively easy. I took mine off to fit an OAP (Overrunning Alternator Pulley) The ball joint was a simple unbolt job for me, swing out of the way, and hey presto alternator off to the garage to get the old solid pulley "buzzed" off. I have also replaced my fuel filter on numerous occasions, and as long as you fill the new one with diesel first, the car starts first time.

 

How about the belt tensioning tool? Do you have one or is there another way?

 

I bought the tool, £16 of the top of my head, hopefully not need it again I have seen home made bodges, might work, but just get the tool!

 

May I add another tip relating to this...

Just had my alternator done and Halfords did it and it was a pig, however.... it wasn't actually the alternator that had gone, it was the bottom pulley. Basically the charging light would come on but if you drove it gently it stayed off... so you'd think it was charging (new correct battery 3 months ago BTW). But it wasn't charging because the bottom pulley slips.

Its not just a lump of metal it has two parts held together with some dense material that acts like a damper and absorbs torque I suppose. Anyway, after replacing the alternator the chap noticed the pulley not right and ordered one of those too.

I would say if anyone has the charger light come on, but then the next day on a gentle run all seems well, change the crank pulley first, much cheaper and easier to get at.

steve

 

It's a common problem.
There is an uprated pulley available now.