Deal with one problem at a time!

We are still waiting for the fuel trims.😎😎

 

Cannot do fuel trims at this time waiting on some bits, read that the PCV can be a sourse of vac leaks that is why I want to check it is all okay

Dave

Deal with one problem at a time!

We are still waiting for the fuel trims.

 

I expect it does, check parts places / workshop manual.

If you plan to change it in hope, that approach could get very expensive.

 

You can make more problems than curing this way. You keep on asking for our advice on problems that we potentially have repaired on our cars and then ignore it.

 

Hi no I do not ignore anyone but the search engine does not bring up what i am after i put in PCV and it came back with nothing found so please do not insult me by saying I am ignoring people when you have not asked the correct questions I am very thanks full for all of the help i have been given

Dave

 

Nobody is trying to insult you; that said, to us it seems that you are thrashing about like a politician who needs to be seen doing "something" about a problem, even if it is the wrong thing...

The fuel trims are important because the small leak in the resonator in the intake [the box thingy...] is after the mass airflow sensor in the air flow within the engine intake system; thus, the engine management system possibly cannot adjust adequately for this unmetered air being introduced into the the combustion process, resulting in your poorly running engine. The fuel trims will help tell us what is going on.

 

Hi got some fuel trims STFT B2 jumping between +5-+7 B1n-21 LTFT both at zero.
Think i have more problems now as i am getting P0102 mass air flow sensor A circuit low, P0122 TP sensor circuit 1 low voltage and P0222 TP sensor 2 low voltage

It never rains
Dave

 

Sorry I was a bit short but the only way to find it you have an air leak is to use the fuel trims and brake cleaner or propane. Even a small one will cause massive problems. The more parts that you move the greater the potential for you to cause more problems.

You have to sort this problem before you damage expensive parts such as the catylists. When you have an air leak the ecu tries to add enough fuel to compensate for this. The air leak effect is reduced when you open the throttle but the ecu takes time to react. This means that the exhaust gases are incorrect and react with the platinum in the catylists eventually destroying them.
They can cost over 800 pounds each, yes you can get them on eBay for a lot less but there is no guarantee of the quality.

 

Right now we have something that we can work on the short term on bank 1 at - 21 is indicating that you had massive air leak as the cars ecu is now trying to reduce the amount of fuel being added to this bank.

The long term will also go into minus but this takes time but it must have been in this condition for some time because the long term will set a new zero for itself.

 

Thanks for your replies do you think the MAF has throwen its hand in and needs to be replaced

Cheers
Dave

 

Have a look in the manual at the code. There will be pin point diagnostics for the MAF. Go through them and then you will know if you have to buy a new one or not.

 

Check your battery voltage first. This car will throw false codes of it low.

 

Forget the trims until you've fixed any problems flagged up. In any case read up on them (fuel trims) - what ones to note, when and why and you'll see you need the sensors etc to be working or the trims can be total garbage and thus misleading.

I agree with the advice to check the battery and if OK follow the manual about the codes you have.

 

Hi battery is good brand new and on charge all night so about 13.8V I am very thankfull for the information about the codes in the manual I have done some checks and have things to sort out but for the next tests I have to be at the ECU plug where is the ECU read somewhere it is under the pollen filter passenger side rear of engine bay but it does not look to be there have not removed the pollen filter yet in case i do not have too

Cheers
Dave

 

13.8V does not sound right. It is hard to be much more than 12.6-12.8V.

That may be the alternator or charger or you are not removing the surface charge - the latter is vital.

 

Hi but no sorry you are wrong 2.2.-2.3 volts per cell on a battery just off charge is about right after 12-24 hours it will stabalize at 12.8volts which is fully charged and when down to 12.5volts the battery is about 75% charged

Dave

 

But you said 13.8V.

 

yes and 2.3V per cell x6 cells =13.8v normal battery voltage after fully charging

dave

 

Stick a decent load on for 3-5mins and see what the volts are.

I've yet to see more than about 12.8V even with a new fully charged battery...

I think your 2.3V is wrong.

 

2.3-2.45 is battery charging voltage and the cell will stay at that voltage after the charger has been removed for a short time it takes 12-24 hours for a battery to equal out to its nominal voltage a charger should always give out between 13.8-14.5 volts lower and the battery will not fully charge and its life will be shortened as the plates sulfiate up

Dave

 

Dave turn on your headlamps for 3 minutes before measuring, that will remove the "surface charge".

.

 

Hi bit of help advice please have started doing the tests as per pinpoint test N, N2 says to measure resistance between pin 2 and earth it says it should be lower than 5 ohms it says with the ignition on if i test with ignition on I get about 16 Ohms with the ignition off I get 3.5 Ohms does anyone know if ignition on is correct or should the ignition be off

Very many Thanks you are a great bunch
Dave

 

ECU plug

Bit more help please is the plug in the picture the plug for tha car ECU where the testing has to be done and is there a pin out for it anywhere

Cheers
Dave

 

Hi sorry another stupid question how do I unplug it I have looked all over cannot see any clips I am used to a bar you lift and it takes the plug back and out

Cheers
Dave

 

Okay daft arse just found the 10mm bolt that holds it together so thanks but it is now removed

Cheers
Dave

 

Going back to your original post in this thread, here is a graphic of the vacuum line/hose connections and routing on the later version of the AJ-V6, courtesy of "rick" over on the "American" Jaguar forum:

 

Fantastic many thanks I read somewhere about a vac hose going to the fuel tank do you know if this is correct on these cars

Cheers
Dave

Going back to your original post in this thread, here is a graphic of the vacuum line/hose connections and routing on the later version of the AJ-V6, courtesy of "rick" over on the "American" Jaguar forum:

View attachment 30390

 

2.3-2.45 is battery charging voltage and the cell will stay at that voltage after the charger has been removed for a short time it takes 12-24 hours for a battery to equal out to its nominal voltage a charger should always give out between 13.8-14.5 volts lower and the battery will not fully charge and its life will be shortened as the plates sulfiate up

Dave

All very interesting but my post referred to yours and was NOT about the charging voltage. It as and is about the battery voltage after getting rid of surface charge. You should not have 2.3V per cell at that point.

 

But i was talking about with surface charge and for some reason you spat you dummy out

Dave

 

Be aware that propane may not find a leak. You may need creative smoke testing.

 

So how does the smoke testing work do you fill the vac system with smoke and see if you see any coming out

Cheers
Dave

 

Hi just to let you know very many thanks for all of your help now waiting on a new MAF sensor will be about three weeks I am out of work and trying to keep costs down so had to order it from china

Many thanks
Dave

 

I think that's a reasonable move, Dave.

They can't often be cleaned successfully and can mislead to changing other parts before coming back to them again.

Let us know how you get on.

.

 

Hi yes tried to clean it brought CRC cleaner which from the web looked the best, made no difference bit the bullet and bought a new one cheap as to be honest

Dave