I do not know which year yours is but try fuse 8 in the trunk fuse box.

Roger

 

Remove interior cover from bootlid, unplug the led brake light and see if power is going to the wiring when brakes applied.

 

Hi Roger,

Thank you for your response, from what little I know, & understand, the fuse boxes are located

1/ - engine compartment
2/ - passenger foot area
3/ - between rear seats - (well they are named rear seats)

is their another fuse box mounted in the boot - (oops sorry trunk) ? -if so where is this located

Many Thanks . . .

 

I do not know which year you have but there should be one in the boot. Ian may be able to asssist here.

Roger

 

Outcome - High Level Brake Light


As new to the Jaguar brand and XK model, a huge thank you to all who replied and forward ideas and suggestions - much appreciated


Fault - Not Working


Initially tested 12 volt supply from brake light switch,


which I believe feeds to the fuse / junction box behind the middle seats.


Plug CA129 / pin 9 - cable colour NR - Brown & Red


This cable routes to a connection CAS54 and splits


1/ - to main Plug BL001 / pin 1 still as Brown & Red -


the other side of the plug (all cables are now black) from vehicle to trunk / boot via rubber hose


into boot plug TL001 / pin 10 - output back to Brown & Red colour


final plug TL008 / pin 1 - (which is the plug the high level light unit plugs into)




2/ - the other feed from connection CAS54 is to a suppressor - which is connected in parallel with the high level brake light


the plug for this is located behind the access panel in the boot / trunk - which is handy to test if a 12 volt output without removing the trunk / boot interior panel or seat section.


this plug is CA188 / pin 1 - again Brown & Red ( +12 volts ) - pin 2 is Black & Green 0 volts - with the brake pedal pressed - 12 volts should be present




in this case - 12 volts was present when the brake pedal was pressed - handy with assistance pressing brake pedal whilst testing with meter




therefore removed the boot / trunk interior panel to access wiring,




The tricky bit, as no assistant to press the brake pedal,


To test, connected a 5 watt bulb (should be ok for testing, even though the LED is only 2.1 watts) to the final plug for the high level brake light, with extended wires, with the boot up,
placed the test bulb over the edge of the boot / trunk so visible from drivers seat whilst pressing the brake pedal.




Hey Ho, the test light lit when brake pedal pressed,




Removed the high level brake light unit (with x 2 screws Torx 20), ( gently removing those light screw covers, to all the female XK owners, girls a warning, you will break a those lovely nails)
and fed with an independent 12 volts supply - No Joy




Replaced High Level Light Unit - Result - working just fine and dandy




Thanks again to all for info and advice . . .


Great Forum

 

Great to hear that, Good write up. Got there in the end. I personally would have started at the light unit (after checking the fuse) and worked back as per Ian's post.
Good job done though.

Roger

 

Hi Roger,

Getting to know the vehicle is a pleasure, initially, wasn't sure how to remove the boot / trunk trim without damaging those clips. Also a couple of forum members mentioned broken cables within the harness.

Whilst the trim was removed, did think to place a fish wire through the flexible hose between the body and trunk / boot - just in case the wiring does break in the future.

Thanks again . . .

 

Hi Roger,

Getting to know the vehicle is a pleasure, initially, wasn't sure how to remove the boot / trunk trim without damaging those clips. Also a couple of forum members mentioned broken cables within the harness.

.

Not on this thread though.
For simplicity one firsts checks the fuse if, there is one, then go to the other end and check the power is being transmitted which eliminates wiring faults and switches etc. Can save a hell of a lot of dismantling and time.

Roger

 

I have the same issue, that is a non working spoiler brake light.
Having read the above with great interest I looked in the handbook to establish which fuse protects the LED light but couldn't find one.

Anyone know which fuse it is?

The X150 doesn't seem to have a fuse box in the boot like the X100 does. It has 3 fuse boxes, Engine Compartment, Rear seat compartment and Passenger compartment.

Fuse F8 in the passenger compartment protects "Footbrake switch" but no sign of brake lights anywhere.

 

There is no separate fuse Neville. The supply to the high level brake light is an output from the auxiliary junction box. Most likely causes are failed LED’s - unlikely if the whole thing is not working or a wiring problem.

 

There is no separate fuse Neville. The supply to the high level brake light is an output from the auxiliary junction box. Most likely causes are failed LED's - unlikely if the whole thing is not working or a wiring problem.

The whole thing is not working. I thought I'd start my search by checking a fuse.

I guess the next step is to remove the boot liner and find the connection and check for 12v there. I removed the LED unit but its a shame that I can't test the wires..........hang on, just had an idea - Perhaps Ill use a pin in the wires, now there's an idea. Or a scotchlock ?

If there is no power when brake lights are on, I could just superglue the tiny holes shut and look elsewhere for the problem

 

Figure 09.5 of this manual will help Neville.:mrgreen:
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/CarPDFFiles/2007XK/XK2006B09097toB20074.pdf

 

My little pin test shows 12v in the light supply wires, so I need a new lamp unit so I'll hunt for a new one.
Thanks for the info guys.

 

I have read on the American forums that a re-boot has cured a high level brake light so it gave me a slight dilemma to consider. However, I took the light right out this morning, cut off the plug and connected the lamp to a fully charged 12v battery on my bench and .................nothing.
New bulb ordered for a stupid price of £69.50 plus VAT.

 

Might be useful to others in the future if you posted up a part number (if bought from main dealer) or a web link if you purchased elsewhere?

Just saying!

 

EBay £77 including delivery.
Www.ebay.co.uk item no 272021916050
I'll let you know if it works when it arrives.

 

Part arrived, fitted and it works. However, it doesn't seem to be a brilliant fit, but then the old one wasn't either!
Having fitted the new one I decided to carefully take the old one apart and found that a 99p diode has failed. When the replacement arrives, just for something to do, I shall solder it onto the small motherboard and see if the repair works.

 

Part arrived, fitted and it works. However, it doesn't seem to be a brilliant fit, but then the old one wasn't either!.

When you say not a brilliant fit, do you mean the centre is not flush with the boot lid/lip, like it is under tension? I noticed this the other day and wondered if it was due to the colder weather; I'm sure it looked a better fit before!

 

Well done Neville and you’ll end up with a spare as well.:mrgreen:

 

Anyone else seen this issue?
In October when I got the car the LED boot light strip fitted closely, yet now at the centre it is a couple of mm out, not massively, but noticeable when you stand to open the boot.
Could it be due to winter temperature?

 

I spent ages trying to get the lamp to fit perfectly then assumed it was just a poor fit.

 

Are there perhaps two versions - one for the standard, low-level spoiler and the other for the taller Speed Pack/Aero Pack version?

 

The HLSL on my old Black beast with the larger spoiler looks the same size.
Interesting point though as the curvature is definitely different.
Gap on my new lamp is 2-3mm. I also just checked a 2007 25k miler and that has the same gap, so I assume the poor fit is standard.

 

I don't recall the lamp on my old car with standard/lower spoiler seeming like a poor fit, but perhaps I never examined it that closely. The one on my new car with the taller spoiler does appear to be fine to me.

Didn't the 4.2 X150 convertibles all get the taller spoiler as standard? Perhaps they shaped the lamp to fit the taller curve and just "made do" with it on the smaller shape.

 

When I installed the radio ariel in the boot spoiler I had the same issue when replacing the lamp.
I tried all sorts to get it to flush fit but in the end put it down to a poor fitting that I hadn't noticed previously.

 

All done now. It turned out that the diode was working OK but a fault had developed on the PCB resolved by adding a small piece of wire.


Photo of the various components which were superglued together. This is probably why the problem occurred as water must have entered. Silicone would have made a better seal.

 

Great result Neville and a working spare as a bonus.:mrgreen:

 

I have bought a new lamp to change mine as the original has several failed LEDs. How do I get the interior trim panel off without damage? There are two round plastic bits, do I have to lever them out? and what else do I have to do?

 

The two round black fixings just lever out, then there are about 8 concealed red plastic trim clips that have to be prized out to remove the black boot lid card (in my convertible). These are the same fittings that door cards have. Also, the black plastic handle needs prizing out.
Once the card has been removed, you will have access to the wiring.
Using an old credit card, prize the red screw covers off the lamp to reveal the torx security screws - the type with a point in the centre of the torx recess.
Carefully remove the lamp and rubber bung and the wire will then come out with the foam on the lead.

 

Thank you for that. The Coupe might be slightly different but I will get the trim panel off when the removal tool set I have ordered from e-bay arrives. I have already removed the screw covers and found the recessed torx bit to remove the two screws.

 

I had a good look at the high-level brake lamp when washing the car last weekend, mine seems to fit pretty neatly? It's slightly recessed from the main curve of the spoiler but in a way that appears to me to be by design rather than poor design or manufacturing quality.

Perhaps the supplier was changed after a certain point in the production run (or after production altogether) and the ones being supplied now are not quite the same shape and size as originally designed?